Hello, Skyfarers, look at your chips, now back to mine, now back at yours, now back to mine. Sadly, they aren’t mine, but if you stopped playing the Casino without a strategy and started using the YANFLY METHOD, it could look like its mine. Look down, back up, where are you? You’re in the Casino Cage with chips your chips can look like. What’s in your hand, back at me. I have it, it’s a strategy with to that jackpot you want. Look again, the strategy is now diamonds! Anything is possible when you play using a strategy and not without a brain. I’m on an airship.
Table of Contents
- What rooms to pick
- GBF Poker Objective
- Should I play Double Up or Nothing?
- Double Up or Nothing Mode Mechanics
WHAT ROOMS TO PICK
tl;dr: Look at your chip count and divide that by 300. Then, pick the closest number out of 1, 10, 100, or 1000 to bet on. Always play 2 cards, not 1 card.
One of the most important things to first know at how to get good is knowing which room to pick. Look at your chip count and divide that by 300. Then, pick the closest number out of 1, 10, 100, or 1000 to bet on. Why that? Because this means you’ll be guaranteeing at least 300 games you can play before losing everything if you’ve lost all the games. If you can’t play 300 games at a table without losing everything, it’s not worth playing. If you go under that value, move to a lower room and work your way back up to the higher tables.
Examples:
- Got 300,000 chips? Play 1000-chip version.
- Got 30,000 chips? Play 100-chip version.
- Got 3,000 chips? Play 10-chip version.
Always play the 2-card version for Double Up. Never the 1-card version as that’s pure RNG. You can’t secure your wins like that.
GBF POKER OBJECTIVE
tl;dr: Don’t play for quality poker hands. Just aim to get into Double Up mode.
The picture above should tell you everything about what the real objective of this Poker system is. The Double Up or Nothing system is the way to go. Winning 1000 chips at a time is too slow. Instead, doubling everything up at a time is faster because exponential math says so. From the lowest bet of 1000, it will go to 1000, 2000, 4000, 8000, 16000, 32000, 64000, 128000, 256000, 512000, 1024000! Though you probably won’t ever get all the way to 1.024m because of draws, but it sure beats winning quality hands only to get you to 1.024m huh?
Ignore going for high multipliers from quality hands. Why? Because we’re not aiming to beat someone else in Poker. We’re just aiming to get into Double Up mode, and spending too much time pondering if you should go for a quality hand is time not spent clicking. For a quick checklist on cards to keep to quickly optimize your playtime efficiency:
Priority List:
- Does the first set of cards dealt have a winning hand by itself? If so, keep the cards that constitute to that winning hand.
- Do you have four cards of the same suit? If so, check those four and hope you get dealt a card that matches that suit for a flush.
- Do you have four cards whose values line up in order? For example, 4, 5, 6, 7. This gives you the potential to land a straight if you get a 3 or 8 making this an open straight.
- Do you have two cards of the same value? For example, a pair of Q’s. Pick this and hope you get either a Q or get dealt another pair of some other value.
- Do you have a joker? Always keep the joker. The joker adds so many hand possibilities.
If you don’t have any of those, don’t even bother keeping any of the cards. If you follow the above 5 steps, you’ll have roughly a 28% to 32% (30% average) chance of getting into Double Up or Nothing per deal. Not going to put the math here because I’m not going to nerd it out in this section (but I will later).
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For example, this hand is absolutely trash. There’s no reason to keep any of them. Just move on. You reduce the odds of you actually getting a three-of-a-kind or two-pair by keeping 1 card and being dealt 4 instead of being dealt 5 new cards.
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If you get only a joker, keep only the joker if there’s nothing else it can get that can help you potentially get into Double Up or Nothing. Let the odds play it out for you. You get better odds of two-pair or three-of-a-kind if you don’t keep a card than if you do. Like such:
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SHOULD I PLAY DOUBLE UP OR NOTHING?
tl;dr: Yes. Always.
Strategy tl;dr: 2 through 7, pick High. 9 through A, pick Low.
Long version: Yesssssssssssssssssssssss. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaalways. No matter how high quality the hand is, always go for that Double Up or Nothing. Yes, you can end up with a crappy Double Up or Nothing starting card of 8, but even that’s a rough 50% chance to win/lose. That’s much better than that 30%/70% chance to win/lose from regular dealing. Put up with it and click yes always. Once you’re in, you’ll see something like this:
You pick whatever the face down card will be compared to the face up card on the left. Card values from lowest to highest work like this in case you don’t know:
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, J, Q, K, A
By that alone, you’ll probably see that 8 is the dead center with 7 leaning slightly more for picking a high card while 9 leaning slightly more for picking a low card. Screw those three cards. Seriously. To make life simple:
- Do you see a 2 through 7? Pick High.
- Do you see a 9 through A? Pick Low.
If you feel like that’s too simple and what a less RNG version, look towards the later end of this guide.
Most of the time, it’ll work out unless you get trolled. Trust me, you’ll know when you got trolled.
DOUBLE UP OR NOTHING MODE MECHANICS
tl;dr: The card revealed on the right will become the card on the left for the next round.
Learn the gimmick of Double Up or Nothing mode! Whenever you win a round during Double Up or Nothing mode, the card revealed on the right will become the card on the left. It’s tricky because you see the cards getting thrown off the screen making you think they don’t carry over. But they do! And use that to your advantage to know if you want to keep on going or bail out. If you have a high bet and you get a crappy card like 7, 8, or 9, then bail out. If you have a high bet and see a super low card like a 2 or a super high card like an A, then keep pressing forward. You can maximize your winnings this way!
Want to know when are good times to bail out?
- You see a 7, 8, 9 coming up and your bet total has the same total digits as your chips total or more. ie. Bet of 128,000 and Chips of 900,000. Bail out and get that 1m.
You see a 7, 8, 9 coming up and your bet won’t double fully because it’d go over 1,500,000. ie. Bet of 1,024,000 isn’t worth doubling up for because it will cap at 1,500,000. Just pull out and get the 1.024m.Apparently, you can go over 1.5m in bets, but you will not be able to continue betting a new round after if it exceeds 1.5m.- You see a 7, 8, 9 coming up, your bet would land you in the ballpark figure you want for a prize. ie. Your bet is 1,024,000 and you currently have 1,700,000 chips. You want to reach 2,500,000 to purchase Anat so there’s no point in setting back your progress later.
You can go past 1,500,000 in bets but you cannot stay a round after even if you haven’t reached round 10. Whether or not you stay long enough to get past 1.5m is up to you, but should you go past it, it’ll promptly end the Double Up or Nothing sessions.
Proof:
When shouldn’t you bail out? Only one real case:
You see a 7, 8, 9 coming up and your bet is still very low. ie. Bet of 4000 isn’t worth bailing out on. Gamble that 50%~ rate instead because that’s better than gambling away 30% win rate.
Some people may think it’s better to never bail out regardless of you being dealt a 7, 8, 9. This is entirely up to you. The way I see it, you’re better off walking away with 1.024m in hand than to risk losing it to 7, 8, 9. As the odds are roughly 30% to reach Double Up mode, the odds aren’t a clear cut 50% to pass win in High/Low. When the risk ratio gets too high, it’s better off to walk away with part of something than nothing at all due to failure.
One other thing to note is that cards will not repeat until you press Deal or enter Double Up. This means that if you saw a card earlier, during the dealing phase or during Double Up, they will not repeat during their own phase. This means there will only ever be one Ace of Spades in a single dealing session, it will remain that way until you press Deal or enter Double Up. You’ll never encounter multiple Ace of Spades during a playthrough during dealing, the same with Double Up, but you can encounter an Ace of Spades during the dealing phase and then again during Double Up. This can help you figure out the odds of winning if you’re willing to get into that.
Claim: Most people will claim they saw 5 of a card being dealt during Double Up or Nothing. Not true. This is most likely because they saw the card dealt on the right fly off the screen then return back onto the screen. Be wary that this is actually the same exact card that’s dealt to you across the rounds. The animation makes it tricky for your brain. Instead, pay attention to the card and suit of each Double Up or Nothing result. It will always be repeated as the next card.
For example:
- Round 1: Ace of Spades -> Ace of Hearts
- Round 2: Ace of Hearts -> Ace of Clubs
- Round 3: Ace of Clubs -> Ace of Diamonds
It will look like there’s multiple Ace of Hearts and Ace of Clubs, but as said before, this is the exact same card being used for the next round. The animation just makes it look like a different one. If you don’t believe me, try recording the data yourself amongst cards dealt during the Deal phase, both cards of Round 1 during Double Up or Nothing, and only the right card of the subsequent rounds.
And that’s it! Hope you have fun!